Mark Dermul
How about that? I actually got to interview the beautiful Master Blender at Morrison-Bowmore: Mrs Rachel Barrie herself. And on Valentine's Day! It does not get much better than that.
It had been way too long since I had visited the
Auchentoshan distillery. The last visit dated back to
June 2011. So I was very much looking forward to
spending the Valentine weekend with Dearly Beloved
(where would I be without that fantastic woman?) in
Glasgow. The reason was three fold in fact. One: spend a
cozy weekend with my wife and whiskyfriends Niek & Ilse
in Glasgow. Two: we had a couple of interviews lined up
for the whisky book that Niek, Ilse and myself are
writing. Three: a very, very special bottle that Niek
and I had purchased sat waiting in the Auchentoshan
vaults at the distillery.
After a short and uneventful flight, we immediately
checked into our hotel, dropped our bags and hailed a
cab to take us directly to the distillery at the foot of
the Kilpatrick hills. Amazingly enough, we had to give
the cabbie directions! The distillery staff were
expecting us. The Distillery Manager, Mr Alistair
McDonald, took it upon himself to give us a
behind-the-scenes tour and treat us like VIPs. Ah, the
power of the Toshan Man (that is a joke).
The Toshan Man &
Alistair McDonald - distillery manager
Believe it or not, Alistair showed us a few places that
we had not yet seen before. But that is all I can say
about it. If I told you more, I would have to kill you…
During the tour, the lovely Wendy, who basically runs
the visitor center, poured us some Three Wood and 21
Year Old. Very good! But we did not get them for free!
We had to work for it. Sort of. I got the honour of
adding the yeast to the wort in one of the washbacks.
Alistair approved of my work. ‘Nice spread, Mark’, he
joked. We stopped to chat with a couple of the staff,
such as Colin at the mash tun and Danny in the still
house. And in the meantime, Ilse kept taking
photographs. As it should be (she was the one with the
professional camera, after all).
Triple Magic
Once we arrived at Warehouse No 3, we got the
opportunity to taste the two Bottle Your Own casks
available. It is a 17 Year Old 1996 and a 12 Year Old
2001, but both are simply stunning! We promised to fill
our bottles later, since we were a bit pressed for time.
And the people we had been waiting for had arrived. Good
ol’ friend Jeremy Stephens (now Process an Spirits
Quality Manager) and his boss, the illustrious Master
Blender at Morrison-Bowmore Distillers: Rachel Barrie.
For Niek and Ilse, it was a pleasant re-acquaintance,
but for Sofie and me, it was the first time to meet this
wonderful and inspiring lady. Alas, the clock kept
ticking and we were here to videotape an interview with
the LadyBlender after all, so she invited us to the
Blender’s Room. The interview far exceeded my
expectations, showing not only that Mrs Barrie was well
prepared, but also very interested. The interview lasted
close to half an hour. It was a true pleasure to see the
combination of professionalism and passion combined with
knowledge and enthusiasm. You can tell that Rachel is my
(whisky) muse. I told her as such, of course, which made
her giggle.
Interview with the Master Blender
‘I’ve been called a lot of things, but never someone’s muse!’
Ah, the power of the Toshan Man (again, a joke).
The content of the interview remains secret for the time
being of course. It will first appear in the
aforementioned whisky book that Niek, Ilse and I have
been working on for the last three years.
When the interview was done, we were handed a huge box.
Niek and I already knew what was inside, of course, but
we still felt like children at Christmas unwrapping the
thing. Inside was something I had been craving for ever
since becoming the Toshan Man so many years ago. It is
the Toshan Summa Cum Laude, the Ultimate Auchentoshan,
the Holy Grail of the Lowland, the… well, you get the
picture.
If it was not for my good friend Niek, I do not think I
would ever have been able to put this beauty in the
collection, but I am very honored and proud to say that
bottle 100 of 171 of the Auchentoshan 50 Year Old 1957
is finally part of the Toshan Man Collection (and I’m
sure Niek is relieved not having to hear me rant and
rave about wanting to get one anymore).
We had a nice lunch planned in the Artisan Restaurant
with Jeremy and Rachel, but unfortunately Rachel was
called away and could not join us. We were stuck with
Jeremy Stephens. Well, at least we had a private
chauffeur, another one of the things that he is not very
good at. I am of course making fun of my good friend –
he is a very professional employee of MBD and extremely
talented, but we do love some good banter and play jokes
all the time.
Derek Mather, the chef extraordinaire of the Artisan (in
Wishaw) prepared us an amazing Octormore Beef in
Auchentoshan gravy. He also poured quite a few fantastic
drams, including some independent offerings. If you are
ever in the neighbourhood, this is one of the hidden
gems that you simply must visit.
During desert – a stunning sorbet with Balvenie 30 Year
Old, blimey! – Jeremy and I made a bit of a bet. I
cannot reveal the details, but let us just say that
Jeremy is quite convinced that I cannot pull off what I
said I would. It is, of course, related to Auchentoshan,
but that is as far as I am willing to go. It would not
do for anyone to interfere and increase Jeremy’s chances
of obtaining a free Bottle Your Own. But I think he has
made a grave error in underestimating the power of the
Toshan Man (not a joke, this time!). Someone way above
Jeremy’s pay grade may expect some correspondence in his
inbox pretty soon. Getting sweaty palms already, Jeremy?
As it should be.
We took our leave after lunch, after profusely thanking
Derek for his wonderful lunch and the equally beautiful
bottle of ‘Tatooine’ Auchentoshan 1990 that he offered
me. Jeremy invited to drop us off at our next stop,
which was the HQ of Douglas Laing & Co, where we were
expected for an interview with both Fred Laing, the CEO,
and his right hand man Jan Beckers – a fellow Belgian!
Needless to say, it was a very long night.
We took the Saturday off to visit the city of Glasgow proper, grab a burger at the newly opened Hard Rock Café on Buchanan Street and stopped for drinks at Pot Still, ate a late dinner at The Bon Accord (Paul, you rock!) and were treated to a fine nighcap at the Ben Nevis whisky pub. Then we turned in as we would be returning to the distillery the very next day.
It may sound a bit strange to visit the distillery again
on the Sunday, but let us not forget that Friday was jam
packed with the tour and interviews and we did not get
around to doing some shopping and bottling our own. And
we had left our Auchentoshan 1957 at the distillery for
safekeeping. When we arrived, we were truly pampered by
Anabelle, Mahj and Darran.
Mahj: ‘Would you like some coffee or tea?’
Mark: ‘Is that a trick question? I thought this
was a whisky distillery?’
Good laughs indeed, but it is true that we stuck to a
simple glass of water. After all, we still had work to
do, which involved tasting whisky. We got free use of
the bar (the location, not the bottles!) to shoot some
of my Whisky Rambling videos (to be found on YouTube of
course). That took us about an hour or two. First up was
the Auchentoshan 38 Year Old 1975, a duty free release
of 500 bottles that will set you back around £600 (although
later that day I saw it at the airport for £850!). A
fantastically, elegant an fruity Auchentoshan indeed.
Then it was time for the Toshan Summa Cum Laude: the
magnificent Auchentoshan 50 Year Old 1957, that Niek and
I had purchased together. Currently priced at no less
than £5,000… Ouch! And still. When tasting this, my
socks went up and down my ankles. Twice (and maybe not
just the socks)! Quite stunning, hitting the pleasure
center in your brain from the first drop! As it should
be.
For our third and final video, we took to the outside,
in front of Warehouse No 3, starting off in a Glasgow
drizzle that soon passed. Ah, the authenticity. We
tasted another Bottle Your Own offering, but were not
allowed – understandably – to film inside the warehouse.
Still, we are very happy with the result and hope you
will be too.
Once that was taken care of, it was only a matter of
minutes to finalize our shopping spree (the haul was
quite impressive, even for us) and grab a taxi back to
the hotel for a final lunch before hopping aboard our
jet back to the mainland. After a two hour drive, we
were only too happy to drop into our own bed again. It
will be another one of those weekends that will be long
remembered.
I would very much like to thank the staff at
Auchentoshan who really treated us like kings and queens
(as it should be – sorry, this is a bit of a running
gag), but also all the friends we met in Glasgow (Derek,
Fred, Cara, Chris, Jan, Andrew & Emma, Paul, Nicola and
co) for making us feel so welcome in your neck of the
woods. A big thanks also to my fellow travelers Niek &
Ilse, who took it upon themselves not only to indulge
the Toshan Man (I can be quite persistent sometimes),
but also organized the Saturday from sun up until long
after sundown and again took the responsibility to make
sure the trip was very well documenten from a
photographic point of view. But most of all I would like
to thank my lovely wife Sofie who endures my whisky
passion without so much as a blink. Without her, there
would be no Toshan Man. I love you, sweetie!
As it should be!