The Toshan Man

Dragon Fruit

Last summer, I suddenly saw a post on social media about this 14-year-old sherry-aged Auchentoshan being bottled exclusively for Taiwan. Fortunately, I have quite a few friends who travel frequently and it was only a matter of asking the question on Facebook before someone - in this case my friend Lars who divides his life between Germany and Hong Kong - made it clear to me that he could easily get hold of this, take the bottle to Germany and ship it from there. I begged him on my bare knees (well, yes) to score two; one for the collection, one to open. And so I did... Strangely, it says ‘Aged 14 Years Sherry Cask - Sweet & Rich’ on the label, even though the small print indicates that it is a vatting of bourbon and sherry casks. Oh, well.

Pleasantly sweet, almost candy-like, on gooseberries, sultanas, plums and fresh fig, but also a surprising touch of dragon fruit. After a few minutes of breathing, something of orangettes joins this - which I like very much - as well as some nuts. Yes, this is good in its genre.

Nice and oily. Immediately very spicy. Yes, this is quite spicy on nutmeg, cloves and cardamom. Then according to the dark-sweet touch of fruit, something like sugared almonds and orangettes. That sweet and sour of dragon fruit also appears on the tongue and I like it. Unfortunately, the spices are a little too loud for the fruit to shine.

The finish is gently drying and remains spicy to the last gasp.

A very drinkable Toshan, especially during winter, as it is as spicy as a mulled wine. Thanks, Lars!