Mark Dermul
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Sunday 24th February 2013 was a
day to celebrate. Not only my 43rd birthday, but mostly to
show off and taste whiskies from my favourite distillery. Thirty friends
came over to
Already from the start, I knew
this was going to be a ball. People started jesting as soon as they saw
me. ‘I thought this was a whisky tasting’ or ‘don’t tell anybody I know
I spent my Sunday tasting Auchentoshan’ and the like.
As it should be. All in good spirit, of course. We had
quite a few laughs.
Inge Lankacker, better known as
Chef Without Restaurant, had started working on her little snacks, for
she would present a little piece of art with every dram served.
After all the tables were set,
glasses and pippettes in place, beamer and screen installed, we were
ready for lift off. The line-up was known beforehand, so everybody knew
what to expect. Or did they? Even for me, three bottles were opened
blind (1, 4 and 5) and hence a bit of a surprise. This was the line up.
1. Auchentoshan 5 Year Old (bottled 1984), Australian Import – 40%
2. Auchentoshan Valinch 2012 Festival Edition bottle 180/200 – 57,2%
3. Auchentoshan 1999/2011 Hand Bottled at the Distillery – 57,1%
4. Auchentoshan 18 Year Old (bottled 1975), Australian Import – 43%
5. Auchentoshan 18 Year Old Oloroso Sherry Matured – 55,8%
6. Auchentoshan 35 Year Old 1975 Bourbon Cask Matured – 46,9%
7. Auchentoshan 30 Year Old 1978
Bourbon Cask Matured – 53,4%
While we enjoyed our aperitif,
the 5 Year Old bottled in 1984, I explained why I am the Toshan Man. In
a nutshell: it was my first big love in whisky and the reason for going
on this malty adventure in the first place. The tasters got some freezedried
mango to go with it. A few drops of the whisky on the mango and then in
the mouth. Amazing! The young whisky was surprisingly good.
While tasting the Valinch 2012
Festival Edition, which everybody loved, I gave a short overview of the
distillery’s history. It was served with a toast of duck liver pie and
apple sauce with whisky, which went very well with this dram.
For many, the next bottle was
the surprise of the evening. This single cask is not available through
regular channels though. Worse, the cask is long gone from the visitor
center. I bottled this myself in 2011. It was very powerful and tasty.
While the wonderful bavarois from melon with a topping of tropical
fruitsauce was very nice, most were simply marvelling at this grand
Distillery Only Toshan. In the meantime, I showcased a couple of photos
from the tour and the bottling of this beauty.
I had high expectations of the
next one, the old 18 Year Old in the blocky bottle, but those were not
met. Maybe the whisky had been in the bottle too long? It was rather
weak. Maybe it was not such a good idea of putting it right after the
powerful Distillery Bottling. Oh well, the wonderful pig’s cheeks with
orange sauce more than made up for it. The room was suddenly hushed,
everybody was enjoying the food.
After a short break, the time
had come for the more serious work.
I personally had rather low
expectations for the 18 Year Old Oloroso Matured, but the whisky took my
by surprise. It was fairly hot, but could take a good spash of water
elegantly. A true swimmer. In the meantime I explained a little more
about Rachel Barrie joining the company as Master Blender and what a
beautiful future that surely means for Auchentoshan (and Bowmore & Glen
Garioch). A nice chocolate cup with a ganache of raisins and parzipan
melted in thirty willing mouths.
The grand finale, then. Two of
my favourite Auchentoshan were opened. First off, the 35 Year Old 1975
Bourbon Cask Matured, a wonderfully fruity Auchentoshan with an almost
tropical nose. For most people, this was the winner of the evening. The
combination with a Long Island Ice Tea praline was absolutely stunning.
For me, however, the final
whisky is the one that I love most and hence I feel lucky I could open
this bottle to share it with friends. The 30 Year Old 1978 is a lot more
powerful, truth be told less fruity and more bourbonny, but very fresh
and lively. It is a grand Toshan that makes me happy. A chocolate whisky
mousse filled choux pastry brought out the best of the whisky.
And thus the Toshan Tasting
ended with a bang. I was very happy with the compliments about the
whisky and the selection I had made (for some, this was their first
encounter with this distillery). The compliments for the food went
straight to Inge. I am very grateful too, for her culinary artwork takes
any tasting to the next level.
While I had asked people not to
bring gifts (after all, their contributions towards my next project, the
50 Year Old) were more than I could ask for, fell on deaf ears, of
course. Or as Bart put it ‘since when do you expect us to actually
listen to you?’. Well said, indeed. Thank you for the wonderful Toshan
gifts that will find a place in my collection. I am humbled!
After everybody had gone home, a
few went downstairs for a hearty dinner in front of the hearth. I would
like to thank everybody for celebrating this birthday with me. It will
be a birthday long remembered. Thank you, all! Let’s do this again next
year!
May the Malt be with you!
Step into the bar and check what Toshan's Mark has tried so far.
Read Mark's reports of his visits to the Auchentoshan Distillery - with loads of photos!